Crate Training and Confinement for Puppies and Dogs

By Ellen Lindell, VMD, DACVB; Monique Feyrecilde, BA, LVT, VTS (Behavior)

Why should I crate train my puppy or dog?

Being able to relax when confined is an important life skill for puppies and dogs. Confinement may be necessary in any of the following situations:

  • When you are not available to supervise your young puppy or newly adopted dog. Confinement in a comfortable place can keep your pet safe, prevent house-training mistakes, and protect your home from possible property damage.
  • When your dog needs to be separated from visiting workers or guests.
  • When other pets or children might disturb your dog.
  • When your dog needs a safe place to rest undisturbed.
  • When you are house-training your dog and are unable to supervise.
  • When you travel with your dog.
  • When your dog goes to the veterinarian, veterinary hospital, or groomer.
  • When your dog is recovering from a medical or surgical procedure.
  • When your dog goes to a boarding facility.
  • When there is an emergency requiring evacuation or temporary sheltering.

A crate for a pet is like a crib, travel sleeper, or playpen for a small child. It is a safe area that can be associated with resting and sleeping. When crate training is done carefully, many dogs are so comfortable in their crates that they voluntarily curl up inside their private "den” when they are ready for a nap. The familiar, cozy crate can be brought along during travel, allowing your dog to have a "home away from home." 

When should I start crate training?

Crate training can start at any age. Starting early makes training easier. Most dogs adjust to crate confinement easily. If you notice any signs of distress and are concerned about your dog’s comfort, for example, if they salivate, vocalize persistently, try to escape, or do not settle, consult your veterinarian before continuing with your training plan.

How do I choose a crate for my dog?

The crate should have enough floor space for your dog to comfortably lie down and stretch and tall enough for your dog to stand comfortably without hitting his head. For puppies, you might need to start with a smaller crate and then increase the size as the puppy grows. For travel, smaller crates are better because if the crate is jostled, such as a rapid braking maneuver in a vehicle, there is less risk of your dog being thrown inside the crate and injured. Larger crates may be used for confinement in the home. There are several types of crates available. Here are some examples, along with the advantages and disadvantages of each:

Collapsible wire crates 

Advantages:

  • Fold flat for storage 
  • Easy to move when collapsed
  • Allow you to view your dog easily

Disadvantages:

  • Dogs may damage the crate bars if they try to escape
  • If dogs try to chew the wires, they can injure their teeth or jaws
  • Not approved for airline travel
  • Not sturdy enough to protect your dog during car travel

Plastic crates 

Advantages:

  • Medium weight
  • Easy to clean
  • Messes are contained, keeping your floor clean
  • Reduced visual stimulation may reduce over-arousal and fear 
  • Can be used for airline travel
  • Provide moderate protection during car travel

Disadvantages:

  • Not collapsible — may need to be disassembled for storage
  • Less portable
  • More difficult to view your dog

Metal box-style crates

Advantages:

  • Sturdy and durable for any travel (always check with individual airlines before a planned flight)
  • Dog cannot escape or damage the crate by chewing
  • Spacing of bars reduces risk of jaw injury

Disadvantages:

  • Heavy and may require an additional storage area
  • Expensive to purchase

Crash-tested crates

Sleepypod, Variocage, Gunnar, and RuffLand are examples of crash-tested crates.

Advantages: 

  • Secure, safe, and sturdy

Disadvantages: 

  • Expensive to purchase
  • Not collapsible

Crate alternatives

Exercise pens and play yards:

  • Available in metal, plastic, or mesh fabric; may include a ceiling panel to prevent dogs from climbing out
  • Can be folded for storage or travel
  • Many are expandable to provide space for toys, piddle pads, and a bed

Baby gates:

  • Allow access to an entire room; the room should be puppy-proofed
  • Many styles and materials are available, including hardwood designed to fit with household décor
  • Choose a height that cannot be easily scaled if your dog jumps
  • For most dogs, gates should be fastened to a solid surface such as a door jamb — freestanding gates can be easily knocked over
  • Provide an area in the room for elimination, such as a litter box or potty pads

Your dog needs daily social interaction as well as physical and mental exercise to remain healthy. Crating or planned confinement is a management tool for times when your dog cannot be supervised or needs a quiet rest period. 

Make sure your dog receives plenty of opportunities for training, exercise, and social interaction. Extended periods of confinement are not healthy for animals.

How do I train my dog to use their crate?

Positive reinforcement training is the best way to help your dog adapt to the crate. Before a training session, make sure your dog has had exercise and an opportunity to eliminate.

To begin, place the crate in an area where the family congregates so that your dog has company. You may choose to have one crate or pen in the main living area of the home and a second in the bedroom for sleeping at night. Make the crate a place for quiet enjoyment. Think of ways to encourage happy, still behavior. Ideas include:

  • Feed your dog’s meals inside the crate from an interactive toy or slow-feeding bowl.
  • Offer edible chews and food-stuffed toys in the crate.
  • Provide safe chew toys in the crate.
  • Reward quiet behavior by periodically dropping a treat through an opening in the back of the crate, or by using a remote reward system such as a Pet Tutor® or Treat and Train™. 
  • When you progress to leaving your dog in the crate during alone time or separation, monitor with a camera for the first few separations to ensure they are not in distress when alone.

At first, leave the crate door open when providing happy, quiet experiences. After a few sessions, your puppy or dog will readily enter the crate. Next, while they are busy chewing or playing with the food toy, close the door and sit nearby. Finally, after a few successful sessions, close the door and leave the room. Try to return while they are still chewing and take a seat nearby or open the door. Gradually increase the time that your dog is crated until they can relax in the crate even after they are finished the food toy.

During initial training, your dog might vocalize briefly, paw the crate door, or fidget. If the behavior lasts a short time and does not escalate, give your dog a few minutes to see if they will settle. You do not want your dog to expect that the crate will always open if they vocalize or scratch. However, if your dog is very distressed, it does not help them learn. Release them from the crate, end the session, and do not have any more sessions until you contact your veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist for professional guidance.

If your puppy or dog has been quietly resting, then awakes and begins to fidget or vocalize, consider whether they may need to eliminate. If it is time for a potty break, take your puppy outside for a quiet, calm elimination break on-leash. This should be a business outing, not a time for attention or play. After your dog finishes eliminating, offer praise and then return them to the crate for a small treat. In a few minutes, your dog should resume resting. 

Calm, quiet, brief elimination breaks will teach your puppy to communicate when they need to go out, but that waking the family during the night will not lead to playtime. Young puppies often need a break during the night to go out until they are old enough to hold their bladder and bowels through the night.

Can I train my dog to get into the crate on cue?

Once your dog willingly goes into the crate, it is time to introduce a cue to ask them to enter. Set up a few training sessions each day.

  1. Pick up a few pieces of kibble or small training treats.
  2. Toss a treat inside the crate — your dog should enter eagerly.
  3. Once your dog goes inside, use a marker word such as "Yes!" or "Good!" and drop two to three more treats into the crate. Then toss a treat out, so your dog leaves the crate.
  4. Repeat the process, continuing to deliver treats every few seconds, to lengthen the time your dog remains in the crate. Then toss a treat out so your dog exits. Try to have three or four repetitions per session.
  5. Once your dog is predictably and eagerly trotting into the crate, add the verbal cue. Quietly toss the treat into the crate and the moment your dog begins to run toward the crate, say “kennel.”
  6. After a few sessions, hold a treat and say “kennel” before you even toss the treat. As your dog begins to run toward the crate, toss the treat. 
  7. Finally, say “crate”, wait for your dog to enter the crate, and then toss the treat. Your dog now understands they must enter the crate to get the treat.
  8. Once your dog eagerly enters the crate when cued, practice closing the door and delivering a few treats several seconds apart. At this point, begin to lengthen the time your dog spends in the crate, as described in the previous section.

Practice from increasing distances until your dog will happily run to the crate from anywhere in the home.

Should I train my dog to exit on cue?

It can be helpful to teach your dog to wait patiently before exiting the crate. This training can be done once your dog eagerly goes to the crate on cue and routinely settles in the crate for extended periods, even with the door closed. 

To train the exit, it is helpful to first teach your dog to “sit” or “down.” Send your dog to the crate, close the door, ask for a sit or down, and then treat. While your dog is sitting quietly, open the door and release with a new cue such as “free” or “okay.”

If your dog tries to rush out before you have given the release cue, calmly close the door (do not slam the door on your dog’s paw or nose), wait a few seconds, and try again. Only open the door when your dog is sitting still. This teaches a safe, controlled exit from the crate.

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