Separation-Related Distress in Dogs: Synopsis

By Ellen Lindell, VMD, DACVB; Debra Horwitz, DVM, DACVB & Gary Landsberg, DVM, DACVB, DECAWBM

What is separation-related distress?

 Some dogs exhibit signs of distress when they are left alone. Signs may include vocalizing, pacing, damaging objects, damaging potential exit points, salivating, vomiting, and eliminating indoors. In most cases, when a dog exhibits a behavior almost exclusively when alone, they are diagnosed with separation-related distress.

The term “separation anxiety” is often used to describe dogs that are anxious when alone, yet new research has shown that the emotional component may be different for different dogs. Some dogs that show signs of distress are more frustrated than anxious, while other dogs are simply restless, with a minimal emotional component to their behavior.

Some dogs that exhibit separation-related distress are calm if there is another person or even another pet with them, while others become distressed when a specific, significant person is absent and do not appear comfortable even when they have another person or pet nearby.

Why do some dogs become distressed when alone?

Dogs are social animals. Their ancestors lived in groups, and free-ranging dogs also tend to travel with other dogs when possible. That means there is a genetic predisposition to seek companionship. Many dog breeders acclimate their puppies to being alone by removing puppies from the litter for an hour or so every day, usually in groups of two or three, and then easing them into alone time in a pen or crate. It is understandable that a puppy or adult dog that has never been alone might become distressed when they arrive in their new home and suddenly have no company. 

Other factors may also affect a dog’s tolerance for being alone. Studies show that a traumatic separation, such as being dropped at a shelter, increases the likelihood that a dog will be distressed when alone. Also, dogs that are easily frustrated may become further distressed when their demands are not immediately met. If they call out with a bark or scratch at a door and no one appears, they may escalate the intensity of their efforts, eventually barking or clawing at doors for the duration of the time they are left unattended. 

Finally, some dogs live in a home where there is at least one person present most of the time. If the household routine changes—perhaps children move away to school or an adult takes a job out of the house—then the dog could be distressed because they are suddenly faced with a silent home and no companionship. 

My dog used to tolerate being alone. What happened?

Any change in the household or home environment can reduce a dog’s comfort with being alone. Some dogs are sensitive to sound, so if noise-muting carpets or curtains are removed, they do not settle well. Similarly, construction projects at your home or in the neighborhood can trigger anxiety.

Medical conditions can also trigger distress. Dogs experiencing pain often do not settle well, and diseases that cause an increase in the urgency to urinate or defecate can also trigger distress, as some dogs cannot wait to relieve themselves. If your dog shows sudden separation-related behavioral concerns, consult your veterinarian to schedule an exam. 

Senior dogs may develop cognitive dysfunction syndrome, a condition related to brain aging. With cognitive decline, dogs can exhibit anxiety and a loss of learned behaviors, forgetting that they are safe when alone. Treatment can slow the process and address the underlying anxiety.

Can I prepare my dog for being alone?

Once your new puppy or adult dog is comfortable in your home, it is important to teach them that they are safe, even when they are out of your sight.

Step 1: Create a safe place to relax. The first step is to establish a safe place where your dog can relax while you are nearby and, eventually, while you are away.  If you have adopted a calm, mature dog that easily settles, is house-trained, and does not display a tendency to chew objects, then you may set up an extra special “alone-time bed” and leave them free to roam the house. To make the location safe and special, offer your dog a food-filled toy and encourage them to enjoy in that spot.

Step 2: Teach your dog to tolerate confinement. It can be helpful to teach dogs to tolerate confinement because your dog may sometimes need to relax behind a gate or in a crate. Confinement training is particularly important for young puppies that might injure themselves or cause damage if left to roam freely. 

To train your dog to be comfortable with confinement, begin by using a gate or crate so that they cannot always follow you. Always give your dog something fun to occupy them, such as a food-filled toy. Return before your dog finishes the toy; otherwise, they may finish and start to bark or whine. When you come back into view, quietly praise your dog without making a big fuss. You can let them finish the toy as you open the gate or crate.

Step 3: Practice being out of sight. After a few sessions, come back into view but leave your dog confined for a little longer. This helps them learn that they can relax even when you are physically unavailable. If your dog enjoys chewing or playing with toys, provide regular toys so they can entertain themselves while waiting for you to let them out. 

Initially, remain nearby but occupy yourself with another activity, so your dog has something to watch. Then practice moving out of sight and returning. Gradually wait a little longer before letting your dog out.

Step 4: Practice short outings. To prepare your dog to be comfortable when you are absent from home, practice taking short outings. To begin, bring a food-filled toy to your dog’s special bed or to a comfortable confinement area.

Before you leave, set up a camera or monitor so that you can return home if your dog shows signs of distress. At first, go out for only a few minutes. When you return, give your dog a quick hello, and go about your usual activities—just as you did with the confinement training. If your dog does well, vary the length of your outings, always monitoring the camera for signs of distress. 

If you notice signs of distress, consult your veterinarian immediately. A customized treatment plan can be designed to address your dog’s emotional needs. Avoid leaving your dog alone until they can be treated. You may be able to hire a pet sitter in the short term.

How is separation-related distress treated?

 The first step in treating separation-related distress is to identify the specific triggers for your dog’s distress and to address the underlying motivation for the behavior. Here are some examples:

Anxiety when alone: If your dog shows signs of distress when alone, such as pacing, salivating, or barking, then much of the behavior modification will focus on helping your dog settle when you are home but out of sight. Relaxation exercises are always important. Practice asking your dog to settle on a blanket when you are nearby and then bring that blanket to the dog’s safe area. Encourage your dog to relax as you intermittently leave their sight.

Anxiety when a specific person is absent: If your dog does not relax when you are absent, even when they have company, then the person who remains home can practice the relaxation exercise. While you step out of the house, your dog can learn to settle and wait while earning some gentle pets, treats, or a food toy. 

Frustration when confined: If your dog tries to escape from the crate, gate, or house by clawing or chewing the barrier, then it is important to work on tolerance of frustration in all aspects of life — as well as working on the relaxation settle exercise. 

  • Avoid giving attention or other rewards when your dog is demanding. 
  • Teach your dog to sit or lie quietly before taking them outside for a walk or delivering their food. 
  • Consider clicker training to shape behaviors and address frustration. 
  • Continue to practice confinement training for random blocks of time, using food toys, and the relaxation settle cue. 

Tips for helping reduce distress:

  • Establish a safe resting spot, such as a settle mat. Your dog can learn that going to the settle mat feels good—it means earning some quiet praise, having some treats, and resting. It may help to dab the settle mat with a synthetic pheromone product such as Thunderease®.
  • Keep goodbyes and hellos low-key. Don’t ignore your dog, but don’t make a fuss. Never punish your dog if you come home to damage or if your dog has soiled. Just clean quietly, ideally with your dog out of the area.
  • If more than one person needs to leave the house, be sure your dog relaxes between each departure. 
  • If your dog is easily stimulated by outside triggers such as people walking by, block access to the view. 
  • Leave white noise playing: a noise machine, a radio, or the TV. Some dogs enjoy Dog TV. 
  • Always set up a spy camera to monitor progress when you leave the house.
  • Be sure to provide your dog with ample opportunities for enrichment when you are home: reward-based training, interactive play, exercise, and interesting toys.

What are the most important tips for training dogs to tolerate your departure?

  • Identify and isolate cues that appear to trigger distress (barking, pacing, ears back, hiding) as you prepare to leave (e.g., getting keys, putting on your coat). Try to prepare so that when you walk out of the house, your dog is not already distressed. You may put your keys and coat outside an hour before you need to leave. It can be helpful to reduce the emotional significance of the cues by handling these objects several times during the day when you have no intention of leaving. 
  • Provide safe toys for your dog to enjoy when you are gone. If your dog is active, scatter food toys around the house. Less active dogs may prefer toys close to their settle spot. 
  • Avoid rushing. Prepare for your departure calmly. Before walking out the door, sit for a few minutes and read or relax. If your dog is free in the house, they may relax on their settle mat before you quietly walk out. If they enjoy food toys, give them a toy a few minutes before you leave.
  • Begin with short departures and return quickly, before your dog appears distressed. When you re-enter, give a brief hello, then take a seat near your dog’s settle spot and relax until your dog relaxes. Gradually and randomly increase departures if they are well tolerated.

If your dog does not tolerate even a short departure, or if you notice distress at any point in training, it is important to discontinue these exercises. Instead of adapting and relaxing, some dogs become distressed increasingly quickly; they are “sensitized” instead of “desensitized”. Further training can be detrimental. In this case, consult a veterinary behaviorist who can help you address your dog’s emotional needs. Meanwhile, to avoid triggering distress, consider hiring a pet sitter or taking advantage of a boarding or daycare facility to keep your dog safe.

Can medication help?

Medications that reduce anxiety, frustration, and panic are available. Two of these drugs, fluoxetine and clomipramine, have been tested and FDA-approved for use in dogs. These medications are generally well tolerated. Dogs that are distressed cannot learn well, and studies show that dogs showing signs of separation anxiety can improve faster when they take an appropriate medication. Some dogs benefit from taking medication every day, while others take medication as needed. 

Medications are only part of the treatment plan—they are meant to be used along with behavioral and environmental modification. Your veterinarian will examine your dog and perform some diagnostic testing to determine whether medication is appropriate for your dog.

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